Solar panel Calculator

Enter one bill's worth of info and get panel count, system size, roof area and production — with the loss math most calculators hide.

Your electricity use

Grab one electricity bill — that's all you need.

kWh/mo
h/day
%
W
%

14% is the standard planning default (NREL). Hot roofs or shading → use 18-25%.

Panels needed

System size
Roof area needed
Daily production
Annual production

The sizing math, shown honestly

System size (kW) = daily kWh target ÷ (peak sun hours × (1 − losses)). Panels = system size × 1000 ÷ panel watts, rounded up. Peak sun hours are not daylight hours — they're the equivalent hours of full-strength (1,000 W/m²) sun your location averages per day. Most tools hide the loss factor; we show it because ignoring it undersizes real systems by ~15-20%.

Typical peak sun hours

Region typePeak sun hours/dayExamples
Cloudy / high latitude3.0 – 3.9UK, Germany, Seattle, Canada
Temperate average4.0 – 4.9Most of US Midwest & Northeast, Japan, France
Sunny5.0 – 5.9Southern US, Spain, most of India & Bangladesh
Very sunny / arid6.0 – 7.0Arizona, Australia outback, Middle East

How many solar panels do you actually need?

Every honest solar estimate is three numbers multiplied together: how much electricity you use, how much sun your roof gets, and how much of the sunlight your equipment actually converts. This calculator asks for exactly those three and shows its working — no address forms, no "get a quote" wall, no phone number required.

Start with the bill. Your monthly kWh is printed on every electricity bill; if you'd rather not dig for it, switch to bill-amount mode and enter what you pay plus your per-kWh rate. A typical example: 900 kWh a month is 30 kWh a day. At 4.5 peak sun hours with 14% system losses, you need 30 ÷ (4.5 × 0.86) ≈ 7.75 kW of panels — about 20 × 400 W panels covering roughly 39 m² of roof.

Peak sun hours ≠ daylight hours. A 14-hour summer day might deliver only 5-6 peak sun hours, because mornings, evenings and clouds deliver weaker light. Use the region chips as a starting point, or look up your city's solar irradiance for precision. Getting this number right matters more than any other input.

The losses field is where most calculators quietly cheat. Panels are rated under lab conditions; real systems lose power to inverter conversion (~3-4%), wiring, dirt, mismatch and — counter-intuitively — heat, since panel output drops as temperature rises. The industry planning default is about 14% total losses. Skipping this makes a system look ~15% cheaper than the one that will actually cover your bill.

What this estimate can't see: your roof's direction and tilt (south-facing near-latitude tilt is ideal in the northern hemisphere), shading from trees or buildings, and local net-metering rules that decide what excess production is worth. Treat the result as a solid planning number for comparing installer quotes — a quote wildly below this size should raise questions about whether it will really offset your usage.

Frequently asked questions

How many solar panels does an average home need?
A home using around 900 kWh/month (the US average) in an area with 4.5 peak sun hours typically needs a 7.5-8 kW system - about 19-22 panels at 400 W each. Cloudier locations or higher usage push that number up; sunnier locations pull it down.
What are peak sun hours?
The number of hours per day your location would need at full-strength sunlight (1,000 W/m2) to equal its actual total solar energy. A location with 5 peak sun hours receives as much solar energy as 5 hours of perfect noon sun, even though the light is spread across the whole day.
Why include a system-loss percentage?
Panels are rated under ideal lab conditions. Real installations lose roughly 14% of rated output to inverter conversion, wiring resistance, dust, panel mismatch and heat. A calculator that ignores losses will undersize your system by about one panel in seven.
What panel wattage should I choose?
Most residential panels installed today are 400-450 W. Higher-wattage panels (500 W+) produce more per panel so you need fewer of them - useful on small roofs - but the total system size in kW is what determines production.
How much roof space do I need?
A modern residential panel occupies just under 2 m2 (about 21 ft2). This calculator estimates area as panels x 1.95 m2 plus a little spacing. A 20-panel system needs roughly 39-45 m2 (420-480 ft2) of unshaded roof.
Can I size a system for less than 100% of my bill?
Yes - set the target offset lower. Many households start at 60-80% offset to fit roof space or budget, then expand later. Some areas also limit system size or pay little for excess export, making a sub-100% offset the economical choice.
Does this work for off-grid systems?
It sizes the panel array correctly for daily energy needs, but off-grid systems also need battery storage sized for night-time and cloudy days, plus extra panel capacity to recharge batteries - typically 1.5-2x the grid-tied array size for the same usage.
Why is my real production sometimes lower than the estimate?
Roof direction and tilt, seasonal sun angle changes, shading, snow and extended cloudy periods all reduce output below the yearly average this calculator uses. Production also varies month to month - summer can be double winter in temperate climates.

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